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Fusing with float glass can be great fun. It uses free glass, it's easy to do, and it's a terrific way to learn how glass responds to being fired in a kiln. There are 3 key factors to consider when working with float:

Compatibility - all glass is compatible if it's from the same sheet but you can't assume any glass from any different sheet is compatible when you mix glass from different sheets.

Lower COE = higher temperature - float glass varies from COE 82 to 86 and requires a higher temperature than art glass to fuse. To produce the same results as COE 96 glass, add 50degrees F to all top temperatures.

Devitrification - float glass is a lot more likely to devitrify than glass made for fusing. To avoid devitrification use a devit spray or coating - or, you may find as many artisans have, that the foggy look of devitrification adds an interesting and attractive look to the project. You can use clear float, gray tint or bronze tint. For the project in the photos shown here, we used bronze. You can use any thickness you want. This project uses 1/4" (6mm) thick glass. To break it up, you can smash it with a hammer into random size pieces or cut it into relatively similar sized bits with a glass cutter. I usually alternate between each method for different looks. The project here was done with pieces cut by hand into roughly same size but random shape. I prefer the look of random shapes but there's no reason you couldn't make project using pieces all the same size to create a geometric design.

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